Hi, I’m Gemma, the owner of Clifford’s restaurant in London. I trained as a chef, worked in some great, busy kitchens, and thought I knew enough about the restaurant world to open my own place. I was so wrong. The past few years have been the toughest, most intense experience of my life, filled with long days, endless obstacles, and countless mistakes. If you had told me how hard it would be, I’m not sure I would have had the courage to take the leap—but I wonder if I could go back and talk to my fresh faced younger self what I would say? Would I warn her, would I shake her and tell her to run for the hills?
Running a restaurant is a completely different beast to working in a kitchen. It’s not just about creating delicious dishes; it's about mastering every tiny detail, from budgeting and staffing to fixing the plumbing.
I’d romanticised the idea of having my own place—imagined it would be all about the food and the atmosphere, with bustling dining rooms and happy guests. I wasn’t prepared for how much of my time would be spent doing everything except cooking. There were a million tasks that needed attention, from negotiating leases and sourcing equipment to learning how to change a U-bend. Plumbing problems quickly became a bigger part of my life than I ever thought they would be.
Looking back, I realise I made so many mistakes along the way. I hired the wrong people, chose some suppliers who didn’t work out, and underestimated the level of paperwork involved. There were times when I trusted my gut when I should have looked at the data, and times I trusted the data instead of my gut.
One of the toughest lessons was learning how to manage people, I recently said to my girlfriends it was the hardest and least rewarding thing I've ever done which was an emotional response to something or other. But it does drain you, it is almost impossibly hard. Managing a full team, keeping them motivated, and navigating the ever-changing dynamics of staff turnover was a whole new challenge. There are days when I feel more like a therapist than a chef—juggling everyone’s needs, problems and personalities. The amount of information people give me in order to get a sick day is quite extraordinary- photos of them on the toilet, voice notes, emails from their parents.
When the pandemic hit, I was sure it would be the end for Clifford’s. We were still finding our footing, and suddenly we had to close our doors, figure out whether a takeaway service would work, and there was no one to turn to. My uncle who also has his own business told me it's the loneliest place owning a business sometimes and he's right. It was a lonely time, but it was also a beautiful time- a time when I returned to cooking and fell in love with my now husband. But I was riddled with anxiety. I just hid away, didn't open emails, avoided calls. But when I threw myself back into it it made me feel invincible.
If I could go back and do it all again, I’d do so many things differently. I’d start smaller, take more time to find the right team, and spend more time understanding the non-culinary side of the business. I’ve come to realise that running a restaurant is not just about passion for food, but the stamina to keep going, to change plans at a moment’s notice, and to never stop learning. It's about thinking on your feet, throwing everything at the wall until something sticks.
Clifford’s has become a reflection of my journey. It’s not a perfect restaurant—it has scars and stories, just like I do. I’ve had to renovate, change menus, and adapt to trends more times than I can count, but I’ve also learned to find beauty in the chaos. It’s in those moments of uncertainty and exhaustion that I’ve found the most growth.
Despite all the setbacks and mistakes, I wouldn’t trade the experience for anything. I’ve learned so much about myself and what I’m capable of. The restaurant has tested me, but it’s also made me a better chef, a more resilient person, and, hopefully, a better leader. Clifford’s is still here, and so am I just about- both stronger for all the challenges we’ve faced.
I’m excited to share more about the ups and downs of running a restaurant, the lessons I’ve learned, and the stories that make Clifford’s what it is today. Whether you’re thinking of opening your own place or just curious about the life behind the scenes, I hope you’ll join me on this journey. There’s still so much more to come, and I’m grateful for every step along the way—even the hard ones.
Thank you for being part of this story.
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